1. Print out the pattern pages, actual size - do not shrink to fit. These will fit perfectly on A4 paper but should work OK on other paper sizes for normal printers. As long as you've told the printer to print actual size, the pattern should be the right size, you might just have more or less border. Note that page 3 is just a layout plan so you don't absolutely have to print that out, but you will need to refer to it on screen if you don't.
2. Cut out pieces 1-9. Start by cutting off all the margins around the graph paper grid. Then cut the black lines. Do not cut any of the dashed lines.
Note that the piece on page 4 does not go right to the margin.
If you are not using A4 paper: the printed grid should still print to the same size, the large squares are an inch. The whole grid on each sheet is 11" by 7". If you can't get it to print to the right size, see suggestion below.
3. You'll now have 9 pattern pieces. Attach these together with tape, referring to the layout plan shown above, and on page 3 of the pattern, lining up the grid squares and roughly matching a to a, b to b, etc. But it's more important that the edges of the pattern match. I suggest you lay the pieces out so that the bottom edges are against a straight edge, either a long rule or a table, to keep it all nice and square.
4. The bottom edge of the completed pattern is marked 'Place on fold of material'. When you come to cut out the material, this line needs to be placed on the fold of your doubled material. You do not need to fold the material on the vertical FOLD markings on the pattern. These are to indicate where you will fold the material to make a hem. It's up to you whether you cut the little notches, or mark the lines on the back of your material.
5. You are ready to start cutting!
6. You can also make pattern pieces for the straps, reinforcements etc using the measurements in the tutorial. Since these are all rectangles, I haven't done printed pattern pieces for these. The measurements are on the other post, here.
6. You can also make pattern pieces for the straps, reinforcements etc using the measurements in the tutorial. Since these are all rectangles, I haven't done printed pattern pieces for these. The measurements are on the other post, here.
7. If your material has a right and wrong side, you will need to make a outer facing for the front part of the harness (otherwise, you'll have the wrong side showing at the front). See picture below. Draw a pattern for this using piece 1, 2 and 4. There is a line marked on piece 4 to show you where the finished edge of the facing should come - so you'll need to cut it about half an inch longer than that.You don't need to add anything extra at the top or sides as you'll put bias tape around it. An alternative, if you are using thinner material than my sturdy denim, is to make the whole thing in two layers, i.e. cut out the main pattern piece twice. These you will place wrong sides together, as the edges with be bound with bias tape.
Suggestion: if your computer / printer won't let you print out the pattern the correct size: it acutally is not too difficult a job to draw your own pattern based on the one inch squares shown on my pattern. You'll need 1" squared paper (though 2" or half an inch would also work if you count carefully). I'm sure as a child you had to enlarge or reduce drawings by using grid squares. However, it would be worth perservering with your printer to try and make it co-operate!
Now see my tutorial for making your baby dining harness!
No comments:
Post a Comment