An A-line dress with colour blocking

This is not strictly the best title for this post,, but I wasn't sure quite what to call it. In this post, I'm going to give you some alternative ideas to make an simple A-line pattern more interesting, by splitting the pattern in various ways. There are a number of different ways you can do this, but the principles are the same.

If we start with a 'simple' horizontal split, we can produce an effect like the above. You could use this for a colour blocked dress - perhaps red on the top at the front and blue at the bottom, with the reverse on the back.

What I'm attempting to show in this diagram is two things:

1. It's better to create the split parallel to the bottom hem if possible, retaining the curve *
2. Decide where you want the split, then add back a seam allowance of 1/2" or 1.2cm to both the top piece and the bottom (skirt) piece. (Obviously, both on the back and the front, if that's the effect you are going for.) Hence the cutting line for the skirt is shown as 1" above the cutting line for the top.

So if you split the pattern, you need to remember to add back a seam allowance to each piece where the two pieces will join.

* There is a special case where I do not recommend splitting parallel to the bottom hem, and that is where you have a fabric with a strong horizontal stripe, as in my black and white dress. I think it will look messier to have the hip height seam cutting across the stripes. So in that case, I would cut straight across the pattern. You are still going to have the hem cutting across the stripes.

Of course, the cut you make across the pattern does not have to be parallel to the floor. You could also make a diagonal cut, like this. Same principle, though, once you've divided the pattern on your new seam line, you'll need to add back seam allowance. Note also that You may also need to add a little to the sides of the seam allowance on the narrower portion - I've attempted to show this by making the top cutting line longer. This is because you risk not having quite enough fabric in the seam allowance to take into the side seams.

If you don't have much experience of 'messing about' with patterns, you may prefer to do this type of cut just on the front, for a decorative effect. That's just because it can then be a little fiddly to get the seams to match on the side seams. But you could just do some completely random colour blocking and not worry about matching at the sides.

 There are numerous other ways you can split the dress pattern to give an interesting effect.  Note that on this diagram, I'm not suggesting you make all of these cuts on a single garment! These are three alternatives shown by the different colours.

The green colour indicates a seam line for an inverted 'V'. So you would again allow a seam allowance of 1/2" on both the upper and lower parts. Here's one like this for my two year old grand-daughter with a gathered broderie anglaise frill along the seam line (or you could use piping, perhaps). For this one, I also flared the shape, but I'll tell you more about that when I do a post on it.

The other two lines, purple and orange, are V shaped cuts. The purple line shows a cut from just below the armhole (at least an inch and a half down so as not to interfere with the armhole seam or facing) to just below hip level, and the orange one is a deeper V from the middle of the shoulder seam to about the same point. This below is not my photo but it shows what the finished effect might be on the latter. Or you might, with a striped fabric, decide to reverse the direction of the stripes above the cut.

All of this requires the addition of seam allowance after the cut is made, and again, take care not to cut too narrow at the side seam.

The seam is just slightly more difficult with cuts such as these V-cuts that come to a point. Before sewing the V shaped seam, I find it helpful to find the exact point on the seam allowance on each piece, and put a tacking stitch through the two points (right sides together, of course). Then pin the rest of one side of the seam, e.g. the left, then the other side. Sew down one side to the point, and then (with the needle in the down position in the seam allowance point (where your tacking stitch is) raise the needle bar and swivel the fabric round so you can sew the other side. Trim the seam and clip off the point of the pointed side. Clip into the V of the other piece without cutting through the seam. You should then be able to press it nicely into place. You can then finish the seam however you like. (If the dress is to be lined, I don't usually finish the seam unless the fabric is the sort that frays a lot.)

Finally, one more special case - which I'll cover in another post. You can make a yoke, by making a higher horizontal cut. But that's for another day.