I had originally intended to use the "This Mama Makes Stuff" design for her Twirly skirt pattern again. (Note that link may no longer work - try this one.) I had JUST enough fabric for this small size skirt (44" wide), as Rose is still only 3. Any longer and I would have needed a wider than normal fabric, or more joins. However, as soon as I started to look at the fabric I realised that the pattern was really strongly directional with rabbits and flowers. I thought it would look very odd with rabbits laying on their sides at the sides of the skirt. They really wanted to be upright. This changed my mind for me about how I would use the fabric. To find out how I made a skirt that still twirled, but had upright rabbits, read on!
I could just have gone for a simple gathered skirt, but instead, I opted for a two layered skirt, so as to get plenty of fullness at the bottom but not too much bulk at the top.
The finished waist measurement was to be 22", as measured. (This did prove an inch or so too big - she must have just had a good lunch when I put the tape measure round her. But it will be fine turned over at the top for a bit, and at least it will still fit her for a while.) I wanted a finished length of about 11".
So the first layer was waist measurement x 1.5 = 33" plus 1" seam allowance, by around 8" deep, to allow a seam allowance top and bottom and finish up about 7". So the first strip was cut from the 44" wide material leaving 10" spare.
The next layer was 4 1/2" deep (to allow for a half inch seam allowance on the top edge only). In circumference, I planned for it to be 1.5 times bigger than first layer i.e. 33" x 1.5 = 51" + 1" seam allowance. I ended up using the full width of fabric i.e. 44", plus the 10" I'd cut off to get the 34" strip for the first layer so actually this layer was a couple of inches longer than strictly necessary. But it seemed pointless to cut 2" off the end. This meant I had a join in the second layer. I defy you to spot the join in my pictures!
So the first task was to make both layers into complete circles. Next, I attached some ready made double fold bias binding tape to the bottom edge of the bottom layer. This was red polka dots.
Before I attached the waistband, I made a simple white lining the same circumference as the top layer, but only about as long as the top layer plus a hem (1/4" plus 1"). It just covered the seam that joined the two layers. Having a lining avoids young ladies complaining about itchy seams against their skin. I don't line every skirt, but it was so easy to do on this one.
I basted the skirt and lining together at the top, and then used 38 mm wide white elastic from Prym for the waistband. I cut 22" of the elastic to allow a 1/2" - 1" seam allowance, and made it into a circle. Again, I marked the top layer and the elastic in quarters (but the elastic was marked with pins rather than ironing in a crease!), and pinned them together at the 1/4 points. I stretched the elastic as I sewed it on, using a zigzag stitch, pulling it fairly tight both behind and in front of the sewing machine needle. This is not a technique I'm very adept at, but it's quick, and it looks OK when finished.
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