This year's summer shorts - Superheroes mark 1 - Oliver+S pattern review

This post is going to be part pattern review and part tutorial. And part - how to get kids shorts out of two fat quarters. 

I started with the aim of using the Oliver+S Sunny Day shorts pattern (a free PDF) and reviewing it. But I found I had so much more to say than what a good pattern this is, and how grateful I am to the author, that it's also become something of a tutorial on how to get the best out of it.

Two of my four grand-daughters boy-type shorts, rather than little short frilly ones. And they are all outgrowing the other free shorts patterns I used to rely on. So this summer, I got my chance to try out the Sunny Day shorts pattern from Oliver + S for the first time. It comes in two sizes, 6 months to age 4, and age 5 to age 12. I used the larger version for the three oldest grand-daughters, in size 8, 7 and 6.

Our local much-loved local department store closed down this summer, so I went to take advantage of their closing down sale. And I picked up some great 100% cotton fat quarters with superhero designs on them for a very good price. They all love superheroes, though one only likes female superheroes, like Black Widow. I bought two fat quarters of each, figuring I must be able to get each pair out of two. In the event, I had to go back for a third fat quarter of the first design - but more about that later.

To get each pair from two fat quarters, I couldn't treat each pattern piece separately, so I overlapped the back and front pattern pieces by about 2 x the seam allowance. I also folded the larger sizes back so I didn't need to cut the pattern right out. As you can see, this size (7) fits nicely. For the size 8, I had to cut further into the selvedge, but I thought it would be fine.

After cutting the first pair out, I did a trial pinning together, to make sure that all the seams would still work. (Actually I made the size 8 pair first, this picture being from the size 6 pair.)

Then I sewed up the inner leg seams, making flat-felled seams for neatness and strength.(To find out more about making flat-felled seams or run and fell seams, see here.)

I pressed up and sewed the bottom hems. Then I put one leg right side out inside the other, which was inside out, and sewed and finished the crutch seam. (Picture from the size 7 pair.) 

All I needed to do then (I thought) was make and attach the waistband and thread the elastic though (adding in a little tab to the back so she could tell front from back)......

.... and they'd be done! Or - so I thought.

Unfortunately, once Fleur tried them on, it because apparent that her nicely-rounded female bottom (although actually only aged 5 3/4) was a little too cosy inside these size 8 shorts. Maybe they are cut for boys after all.

So I had to go and buy another fat quarter (luckily the shop was still open for a few days more). And split the shorts down the sides so I could add an extra panel each side. I had be careful to get the fabrics as lined up as possible to match the pattern on the panels. (Don't think I made too bad a job?) 

In the end, this did me a favour. Because I had originally dispensed with the side seams, I hadn't been able to include side pockets. By adding in the panels - actually a double-panel each side - I was able to include hidden side pockets in the panel seams.

So I had to be a bit more careful in making the other two pairs. Hence pinning them together and checking the fit as well as that the seams all went together. (This is the size 6 pair. No need for extra side panels.)

I also realised that I was not going to be able to get away with pockets for one grand-daughters and no pockets for the other two. However, rather than go to the additional effort (and extra fabric) of the in seam pockets, I added patch pockets to where the side seam would be. It's best to do this before putting the shorts together. Here a pocket is pinned to one side of the shorts while they are still flat. 

There was just enough spare fabric for one pocket on each. As with the panels, I tried to match the seams as well as I could, so that you can hardly see the pockets unless you look carefully. 

And here in close-up.

Finally, the size 7 pair. Can you see the pocket? Well, of course you can, as I've pointed it out to you! But I'm pretty happy with my matching efforts.

 I only managed so far to capture two of the 3 pairs in use, as the other grand-daughter went immediately on holiday afterwards.  And then it was on to the next pairs. (More about those later! It's fair to say I'll be using the Oliver+S pattern again - but I'll make sure I do a better job of measuring the children first. )